Archive for February, 2009
Final 2/14 - Cape Horn - Ushuaia - Home
Sunday, February 15th, 2009While in the Drake Passage, Stephen climbed the mast and brought down the halyard so a trysail could be hoisted to give us more speed.
We rounded Cape Horn under sail in bright moonlight Thursday morning at 3 AM. There was not much talking as we all watched respectfully from the deck and passed by one of the most famous, and infamous, places on earth.
In the last hours, I copied everyone’s digital pictures and videos onto my laptop: 26.3 gigabytes, 8,286 photos.
That night we glided to our moorings in Ushuaia, Argentina, experiencing the sights and sounds of civilization for the first time in a month. The next day brought the inevitable and surprisingly emotional break-up of ten people from seven nations, who had come together for a once in a lifetime experience.


260 miles to the Horn
Tuesday, February 10th, 2009Saturday evening we took in shore lines and left Barbara Bay for Buchanan Channel. We didn’t name the channel, it’s printed on the chart. Coincidentally it’s Barbara’s maiden name.
This passage of the Drake is a lot rougher than the last, even some of the crew are seasick. And our mainsail halyard has ripped free. It can’t be fixed without climbing the mast; however that’s dangerous in these seas. Therefore our speed is limited.
We hope to reach Cape Horn early Thursday.
I saw my first Albatross today.
Update 2/6 - Sliding
Saturday, February 7th, 2009We were scheduled to leave Antarctica at 5 AM today, however Stephen was not happy with the weather forecast. We would be sailing into the wind most of the way and have 60 knot winds off of Cape Horn. Not the best plan. Therefore we will be spending more time in Antarctica, perhaps three more days.
This afternoon we went ashore for a sliding contest. One picture is of the group, the other shows Julie, Audrey and Stephanie sliding down the hill on some of Xplore’s fenders tied together. My best slide was headfirst on my back with a large trash bag over my head. However Cecilia clearly had the distance record.


Update 2/5 - Serge Rock, Barbara Bay
Friday, February 6th, 2009This morning Stephen, Serge, Sonia and myself took the zodiac out for some map making. These islands are mostly uncharted so with GPS, depth sounder, paper and pencil we tried to correct that condition. In the process we named Serge Rock and Barbara Bay.
Later in the day quite a few seals were spotted. One picture shows four Fur Seals and another is of a Crab Eater Seal. Thank you to Stephanie for the photos.
Stephanie, Serge and Audrey are from France. They tell me I am the only person they have ever known that has a French last name but speaks no French. They are amazed that such a thing is possible. They have convinced all aboard to use the French pronunciation of my name, so I am “Reechaaar” on board Xplore. I also receive daily French lessons.
Au revoir les amis, rendez-vous pour le prochain blog tout droit venu du fameux Drake


Update 2/4 - Troll Cove, Pitt Islands
Thursday, February 5th, 2009Today we moved down to the Pitt Islands. We passed through some ice in cold clear weather. One picture is James behind Julie while she is at the wheel.
We entered Troll Cove through a narrow passage with three feet of water under the keel and a glacier overhanging the boat. The picture doesn’t do the glacier justice, it extends much higher than my camera could record.
There is also a picture of the southern end of the LeMaire Channel.
Answers:
The ice is blue for the same reason the sky is blue, scattered light and the relative strength of the blue photon.
The countries represented on board are France (3), New Zealand (2), United Kingdom, Australia, Argentina, Germany and the USA.
It can be 70 degrees Fahrenheit in Antarctica because it is summer down here.



Update 2/3 - Vernadsky Station
Wednesday, February 4th, 2009Last night we visited the 13 man Vernadsky Ukrainian station. They gave us an interesting tour of the base. It is the place where the hole in the ozone layer was first discovered.
The last stop on the tour was the bar where we were acquainted with a couple of the bases unofficial projects, making strong vodka, and seeing to it that visitors drink plenty of it. Today we are talking softly and sitting out a snowfall. My laundry froze on the rail last night before it was able to dry. It’s now hung in my tiny cabin.
Xplore is secured in place by means of shore lines. When we arrive at a new location Stephen finds a secluded area protected from icebergs. We drop anchor and back into the desired location. The zodiac is quickly launched and attaches heavy lines from the boat to shore at the four corners. The lines are tied to steel cables that are wrapped around large rocks on shore. Sometimes an acceptable spot is hard to find and requires going far back on shore. The lines are winched tight on board Xplore to secure us in place.
Pictured is a Weddell seal we found today.


Update 2/2 - Ice Caves on Galindez
Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009Today we explored the ice caves on Galindez Island. One of the pictures shows Cecilia, Audrey and Stephen in the ice cave. Another shows me climbing up the outside to the entrance. The caves where deep and very difficult in places but Stephen took in small groups throughout the afternoon.
Back on board Xplore we used the warm sun to dry out and do some laundry. The hatch in my cabin was opened for the first time since we departed Ushuaia.
This evening we are invited to the Ukrainian station nearby.
Congratulations to the Steelers for their last minute Super Bowl victory.



Update 2/1 - Stella Creek
Monday, February 2nd, 2009Today we moved to an Adelie penguin rookery on Yalour Island. Glacier came ashore and was a big hit. The chicks were large and molting, not very cute to be honest.
Later we moved to the Ukranian station at Stella Creek. On the way we spotted several Humpback whales, and came close to two. This time I left my camera in my pocket and simply enjoyed the experience.
The good news is the bread I made was a big hit. The bad news is now I have to make more.


Update 1/31 - Hovgaard Island
Sunday, February 1st, 2009Everyone helps out in the galley preparing meals. I made the mistake of admitting I had made bread. Actually all I had done was put some ingredients in a bread machine and pressed the start button, a few hours later I had bread. Anyway, today it was my job to make bread so I opened the “Joy of Cooking” book, found a recipe and made bread. It looks good but nobody has had the courage to eat it yet.
This afternoon Stephanie and I climbed 1,200 foot high Mount Hovgaard on Hovgaard Island. The view from the top is spectacular in every direction. In the iceberg picture you can see Xplore near the bottom and to the left. The other picture shows the LeMaire Channel entrance in the center of the picture.

