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This morning we investigated Circumcision Bay where the Charcot Expedition wintered a hundred years ago. In the bay we found a Leopard Seal, about nine feet long, on an ice flow. We were able to get to within a few feet and took some nice pictures.
In the afternoon we sailed down the LeMaire Channel. A narrow passage with mountains and glaciers on both sides, incredibly beautiful.
On the down side we have decided to stop serving red wine at lunch. The reason is we only have enough red wine for 3 or 4 bottles per day until the end of the trip. And we are completely out of fresh apples and pears. We will try and survive.

Today we moved to Port Charcot, a historic site dating back to 1909. Google Charcot and Antarctica if you are interested. The weather is not very good so we are staying inside today and hope to venture out tomorrow. This is Antarctica and perfect days like yesterday don’t come very often.
Our keel touched bottom yesterday as we were attempting to find a way out of an ice filled Port Lockroy. No disaster since we have a steel hull and Stephen was going dead slow. But not something that brings a smile to anyone’s face either. Audrey and Simon took a portable depth sounder out in the zodiac and found a route with enough water for Xplore.

This morning while I was on deck talking with Barbara on the satellite phone a glacier on the other side of the bay calved. An enormous section of the glacier fell into the water sending a wave the surged around the bay for some time. One of our mooring lines snapped under the strain. The sight and sounds were very impressive; unfortunately Barbara could only get a verbal description of what we were observing.
Later in the day we visited the historic British station at Port Lockroy and we purchased some items from the gift shop there. Stephen invited the three women that work at the station to take and afternoon sail with us to an abandoned Chilean station down the channel. After that they were our guests for dinner.
Warm sun all day and fantastic views, temperature about 70. I understand there is a snow storm back in Massachusetts.

Port Lockroy has the reputation of being one of the most beautiful locations in Antarctica, and it didn’t disappoint. We spent an easy day hiking and snow shoeing to see the sights.
Glacier the penguin spent the day visiting some of his Gentoo cousins.
All aboard want to say hello to Natacha and Karen who hitched a ride on Xplore from Ushuaia to Puerto Williams.

This morning we moved down the Gerlache Straits in a flat calm, fog and ice. We go around the big ice and push the small stuff out of the way.
We anchored at Couverville Island and visited the Gentoo penguin colony. There were thousands of penguins and most nests held two chicks. They are very friendly and you can walk in among them if you take it slow.
Just before lunch I spotted a large Leopard Seal swimming under Xplore and the zodiac. Leopards can be very aggressive, have lots of sharp teeth and like to tear apart zodiacs, therefore we winched ours out of the water. In the picture you can see the Leopard Seal under the zodiac.
Tonight we are motoring over to Port Lockroy where we hope to spend a couple of days.

This morning, in light snow, we went for a cruise in the Zodiac and visited several icebergs. One had a hole in it that we were able to take the boat through. What looks like a crack in the picture is actually dark blue ice.
James spotted a few Weddell seals on a small, football field sized island. The island at 64° 33.231′ South, 61° 59.715′ West is charted but unnamed. As the first ashore I took the liberty of naming it Carter Island. When I am home I will contact the Antarctic Naming Committee and try to make the name official. The seals were huge and not intimidated by us. We were able to approach within a few feet for pictures.
On the beach I collected a number of interesting stones. Enough to give one to each student of Miss Hughes’ Fisher School class.

This morning six of us climbed Enterprise Island in strong wind and light snow. A wonderful view even with the limited visibility.
After a big lunch we ran the generator and water maker so we could have hot showers. Xplore is like home now, very comfortable and the meals are first class. The boat being from Australia we have “A Cuppa” (coffee, tea or hot chocolate) all day long. Choosing the right wine and music is a regular topic of conversation.
The ten of us seem to be compatible, a good laugh is a regular occurrence. We have no difficulty agreeing on where we want Xplore to go and what we will do there. Stephen, the captain, will take us wherever we choose, if ice and weather allow.
One picture is from Enterprise Island with icebergs in the distance. The other shows the grounded Norwegian whaler we are moored to and Explores mast behind. Both shots are a little blurred from the snow.

Failing to find good holding ground after a wind change, we sailed out of Deception at midnight. Crossing from the Shetland Islands to the mainland was very rough. Happily I was not the least seasick. We spent an idyllic day today sailing down the Gerlache Straits in the warm sun, about 20 degrees.
In the afternoon three enormous Humpback Whales showed up to play. They circled the boat, passed under the boat, sometimes surfacing slowly just inches away from us. Ten cameras where clicking away as they rolled, blew, growled and splashed alongside Xplore for some time. An incredible experience!
This evening we are at Nansen Island moored to a wrecked Norwegian whaling boat in a tiny bay surrounded by high glaciers on all sides.

This morning we arrived at Deception Island and sailed inside. Deception is a sunken dormant volcano that last erupted in 1969. Neptune’s Bellows, a narrow channel, leads into the volcano’s crater where we dropped anchor in Whaler Bay near an abandoned whaling base.
We did some exploring in the morning and went for a swim in the afternoon. The volcano’s thermal vents heat the water in places, sometimes to hot for comfort. The picture is myself, Stephanie, James and Serge enjoying an Antarctic swim in the crater of a volcano, a first for us all. Several penguins swam with us.

This morning we went ashore on King George Island. A Chinstrap penguin walked right up to us as if to welcome us to Antarctica. The picture is attached. There is also a picture of Glacier the Penguin sitting on a whale bone with Xplore in the background.
Men from the Brazilian base on the other side of the peninsular drove ATV’s to our anchorage to say hello. Unfortunately they rolled an ATV and a man broke his arm. Audrey landed our Zodiac and took the injured man back to his base by water.
The base commander insisted we visit the base so they could say thank you. In the afternoon we brought Xplore around to the base and spent the rest of the day being treated like royalty. On arrival they asked our nationalities, we are ten people from seven nations. For the afternoon the base flew the flags of our seven countries beneath the flag of Brazil. Impressive to think a Brazilian base flew the Stars and Stripes just because I was there. The base is large and very impressive with many scientific projects underway.
During our stay a small iceberg drifted against Xplore. Stephen and Audrey spent about an hour making sure the berg didn’t damage Xplore or ground on our anchor.
We have departed King George Island and will spend the night sailing to Deception Island.

We are now at anchor in a snug harbor at King George Island. It is a nice change to have the boat almost still and not have to stand watches in the middle of the night.
Taking in sail and winching the anchor out of the forepeak was a fun procedure on a pitching, icy deck during a light snow storm. We all had very cold fingers when that was over. The harbor is beautiful with glaciers in every direction. We are now in Antarctica.
I am the only American, but everyone was very interested in the Inauguration. We talked about it over our dinner of Ratatouille (like in the movie).

Another blow is in the forecast so we have are changing course for King George Island in the Shetlands. Elephant is where we wanted to go because of its history with Shackleton and the most amazing survival story (google Shackleton). But Elephant has no harbor for us to ride out a blow.
Xplore is beautiful, modern and comfortable. And for the last few days we have been thrown around inside her like rag dolls in a dryer. Everyone else is pretending this is normal, so I am going along with the joke. I took a shower today and ate some solid food, my seasickness almost gone.
One picture shows our progress. The other is me at the wheel , you can just make out the southern tip of South America in the distance.

There was no update yesterday, I was to sick.
We sailed out of Puerto Toro at Noon yesterday. As we passed Cape Horn and the last of the islands it beccame very rough. All of us had taken sea sick medication, but I guess they were not designed for this. I’m feeling better today and actually ate a banana. Next stop Elephant Island, we can be there in two days.

The Chilean Navy came on board this morning to announce that Puerto Toro is now closed. Due to high winds we are not allowed to leave the bay until conditions improve. Puerto Toro is crab fishing village, about a dozen homes and a tiny church. The southernmost settlement in the world.
We have spent part of the day preparing meals that can be eaten quickly as we cross the Drake Passage. The cemetery pictured is up the hill from the settlement.
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We sailed out of Ushuaia Argentina this morning and entered Puerto Williams, Chile this afternoon. After picking up James we continued to Puerto Toro.
The weather forcast is for 50 knot winds with 80 knot gusts. We can’t cross the Drake Passage to Antarctica in that so we will stay in South America for a while.
The crew is Stephen, Audrey, Stepnanie and Julie. Simon is part time crew.
There is also James and Sonia, plus Surge and Cecilia, add myself to make 10. Five woman, and five men.

My Antarctic voyage on Xplore will begin January 13, 2009 Click a link above to visit previous expeditions.