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Today is our last full day in the arctic. During our breakfast of pancakes and bacon we noticed five grizzly bears on the hill behind us. Two of them were mating, something our guide with twenty years experience has never seen before. Later in the day while climbing a 2,300 foot peak we saw two grizzlies and then a group of three grizzlies. From the peak we looked down on the arctic ocean. On our way down a caribou (pictured) came very close to our group.
Tonight we are staying up to see the midnight sun on the solstice.

Yesterday we rafted down class three rapids, very exciting. We have seen caribiou, arctic fox and sheep. There are wild flowers by the millions on the tundra. We hope to see a grizzly bear.

Yesterday we climbed a 3,000 foot peak to get a look around and take pictures. On the way we ate cranberries that grow wild on the arctic tundra. Today we rafted down river through ice flows and saw wild sheep. We had fun even though it rained all day.

rafting picture

We spent a beautiful day rafting on the river. My first time rafting. We made camp then Andy, Sarajane and I went for a quick swim in the river. I have now swum in the arctic and the antarctic. We then had bison for supper.

picture

I have arrived on the Kongakut river in northern Alaska. We are so far north that the sun will not set during our 10 days of rafting and hiking our way to the arctic ocean. The weather is perfect so far, but river level is very low.

Daily updates will begin around June 13. 2010

Up at 5 AM Sunday we arrived at Machu Picchu just after dawn. We toured the ruins until late afternoon. This ancient city is indeed impressive. Monday we take the train back to Cuzco for more site seeing.

The lodge were we stayed last night is lower center of the picture. To the right of that I think you can make out the trail we trekked down to the lodge. The rivers we have been following all end up in the Amazon River and then the Atlantic Ocean.

One of the lodges we are staying at is in the picture. They are only a few years old and very comfortable. There are no roads to the lodges, everything comes here by horseback.

We were told to expect a special meal today. We were served guinea pigs cooked underground. My first time eating rodent. It tastes something like duck.

Wednesday we trekked for about eight hours. We started in good weather for the Salkantay Pass elevation 15,213 feet. It started to rain as we climbed and changed to wind blown hail as we approached the pass. The hail added to the fun of just trying to breath at that altitude.
We decended 2,000 feet to a comfortable lodge and a good meal. Tomorrow we decend into jungle conditions.

I arrived in Cuzco Peru on Sunday and met with other group members and our guides. Monday we arrived at Salkantay lodge elevation 12,690 feet. Today we climbed to Humantay Lake elevation 14,100 feet.
Our guides claimed nobody has ever swum in this cold glacial lake, but that a few had stuck there feet in. I totally submerged myself in the lake (it was cold) so perhaps I am the first. Wednesday we begin our trek to Machu Piccchu.
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While in the Drake Passage, Stephen climbed the mast and brought down the halyard so a trysail could be hoisted to give us more speed.

We rounded Cape Horn under sail in bright moonlight Thursday morning at 3 AM. There was not much talking as we all watched respectfully from the deck and passed by one of the most famous, and infamous, places on earth.

In the last hours, I copied everyone’s digital pictures and videos onto my laptop: 26.3 gigabytes, 8,286 photos.

That night we glided to our moorings in Ushuaia, Argentina, experiencing the sights and sounds of civilization for the first time in a month. The next day brought the inevitable and surprisingly emotional break-up of ten people from seven nations, who had come together for a once in a lifetime experience.

Saturday evening we took in shore lines and left Barbara Bay for Buchanan Channel. We didn’t name the channel, it’s printed on the chart. Coincidentally it’s Barbara’s maiden name.
This passage of the Drake is a lot rougher than the last, even some of the crew are seasick. And our mainsail halyard has ripped free. It can’t be fixed without climbing the mast; however that’s dangerous in these seas. Therefore our speed is limited.
We hope to reach Cape Horn early Thursday.
I saw my first Albatross today.

We were scheduled to leave Antarctica at 5 AM today, however Stephen was not happy with the weather forecast. We would be sailing into the wind most of the way and have 60 knot winds off of Cape Horn. Not the best plan. Therefore we will be spending more time in Antarctica, perhaps three more days.
This afternoon we went ashore for a sliding contest. One picture is of the group, the other shows Julie, Audrey and Stephanie sliding down the hill on some of Xplore’s fenders tied together. My best slide was headfirst on my back with a large trash bag over my head. However Cecilia clearly had the distance record.

This morning Stephen, Serge, Sonia and myself took the zodiac out for some map making. These islands are mostly uncharted so with GPS, depth sounder, paper and pencil we tried to correct that condition. In the process we named Serge Rock and Barbara Bay.
Later in the day quite a few seals were spotted. One picture shows four Fur Seals and another is of a Crab Eater Seal. Thank you to Stephanie for the photos.
Stephanie, Serge and Audrey are from France. They tell me I am the only person they have ever known that has a French last name but speaks no French. They are amazed that such a thing is possible. They have convinced all aboard to use the French pronunciation of my name, so I am “Reechaaar” on board Xplore. I also receive daily French lessons.
Au revoir les amis, rendez-vous pour le prochain blog tout droit venu du fameux Drake

Today we moved down to the Pitt Islands. We passed through some ice in cold clear weather. One picture is James behind Julie while she is at the wheel.
We entered Troll Cove through a narrow passage with three feet of water under the keel and a glacier overhanging the boat. The picture doesn’t do the glacier justice, it extends much higher than my camera could record.
There is also a picture of the southern end of the LeMaire Channel.
Answers:
The ice is blue for the same reason the sky is blue, scattered light and the relative strength of the blue photon.
The countries represented on board are France (3), New Zealand (2), United Kingdom, Australia, Argentina, Germany and the USA.
It can be 70 degrees Fahrenheit in Antarctica because it is summer down here.

Last night we visited the 13 man Vernadsky Ukrainian station. They gave us an interesting tour of the base. It is the place where the hole in the ozone layer was first discovered.
The last stop on the tour was the bar where we were acquainted with a couple of the bases unofficial projects, making strong vodka, and seeing to it that visitors drink plenty of it. Today we are talking softly and sitting out a snowfall. My laundry froze on the rail last night before it was able to dry. It’s now hung in my tiny cabin.
Xplore is secured in place by means of shore lines. When we arrive at a new location Stephen finds a secluded area protected from icebergs. We drop anchor and back into the desired location. The zodiac is quickly launched and attaches heavy lines from the boat to shore at the four corners. The lines are tied to steel cables that are wrapped around large rocks on shore. Sometimes an acceptable spot is hard to find and requires going far back on shore. The lines are winched tight on board Xplore to secure us in place.
Pictured is a Weddell seal we found today.