Icetent.com/blog

Up at 5 AM Sunday we arrived at Machu Picchu just after dawn. We toured the ruins until late afternoon. This ancient city is indeed impressive. Monday we take the train back to Cuzco for more site seeing.

The lodge were we stayed last night is lower center of the picture. To the right of that I think you can make out the trail we trekked down to the lodge. The rivers we have been following all end up in the Amazon River and then the Atlantic Ocean.

One of the lodges we are staying at is in the picture. They are only a few years old and very comfortable. There are no roads to the lodges, everything comes here by horseback.

We were told to expect a special meal today. We were served guinea pigs cooked underground. My first time eating rodent. It tastes something like duck.

Wednesday we trekked for about eight hours. We started in good weather for the Salkantay Pass elevation 15,213 feet. It started to rain as we climbed and changed to wind blown hail as we approached the pass. The hail added to the fun of just trying to breath at that altitude.
We decended 2,000 feet to a comfortable lodge and a good meal. Tomorrow we decend into jungle conditions.

I arrived in Cuzco Peru on Sunday and met with other group members and our guides. Monday we arrived at Salkantay lodge elevation 12,690 feet. Today we climbed to Humantay Lake elevation 14,100 feet.
Our guides claimed nobody has ever swum in this cold glacial lake, but that a few had stuck there feet in. I totally submerged myself in the lake (it was cold) so perhaps I am the first. Wednesday we begin our trek to Machu Piccchu.
More at icetent. com/blog

http://www.youtube.com/icetents

While in the Drake Passage, Stephen climbed the mast and brought down the halyard so a trysail could be hoisted to give us more speed.

We rounded Cape Horn under sail in bright moonlight Thursday morning at 3 AM. There was not much talking as we all watched respectfully from the deck and passed by one of the most famous, and infamous, places on earth.

In the last hours, I copied everyone’s digital pictures and videos onto my laptop: 26.3 gigabytes, 8,286 photos.

That night we glided to our moorings in Ushuaia, Argentina, experiencing the sights and sounds of civilization for the first time in a month. The next day brought the inevitable and surprisingly emotional break-up of ten people from seven nations, who had come together for a once in a lifetime experience.

Saturday evening we took in shore lines and left Barbara Bay for Buchanan Channel. We didn’t name the channel, it’s printed on the chart. Coincidentally it’s Barbara’s maiden name.
This passage of the Drake is a lot rougher than the last, even some of the crew are seasick. And our mainsail halyard has ripped free. It can’t be fixed without climbing the mast; however that’s dangerous in these seas. Therefore our speed is limited.
We hope to reach Cape Horn early Thursday.
I saw my first Albatross today.

We were scheduled to leave Antarctica at 5 AM today, however Stephen was not happy with the weather forecast. We would be sailing into the wind most of the way and have 60 knot winds off of Cape Horn. Not the best plan. Therefore we will be spending more time in Antarctica, perhaps three more days.
This afternoon we went ashore for a sliding contest. One picture is of the group, the other shows Julie, Audrey and Stephanie sliding down the hill on some of Xplore’s fenders tied together. My best slide was headfirst on my back with a large trash bag over my head. However Cecilia clearly had the distance record.

This morning Stephen, Serge, Sonia and myself took the zodiac out for some map making. These islands are mostly uncharted so with GPS, depth sounder, paper and pencil we tried to correct that condition. In the process we named Serge Rock and Barbara Bay.
Later in the day quite a few seals were spotted. One picture shows four Fur Seals and another is of a Crab Eater Seal. Thank you to Stephanie for the photos.
Stephanie, Serge and Audrey are from France. They tell me I am the only person they have ever known that has a French last name but speaks no French. They are amazed that such a thing is possible. They have convinced all aboard to use the French pronunciation of my name, so I am “Reechaaar” on board Xplore. I also receive daily French lessons.
Au revoir les amis, rendez-vous pour le prochain blog tout droit venu du fameux Drake

Today we moved down to the Pitt Islands. We passed through some ice in cold clear weather. One picture is James behind Julie while she is at the wheel.
We entered Troll Cove through a narrow passage with three feet of water under the keel and a glacier overhanging the boat. The picture doesn’t do the glacier justice, it extends much higher than my camera could record.
There is also a picture of the southern end of the LeMaire Channel.
Answers:
The ice is blue for the same reason the sky is blue, scattered light and the relative strength of the blue photon.
The countries represented on board are France (3), New Zealand (2), United Kingdom, Australia, Argentina, Germany and the USA.
It can be 70 degrees Fahrenheit in Antarctica because it is summer down here.

Last night we visited the 13 man Vernadsky Ukrainian station. They gave us an interesting tour of the base. It is the place where the hole in the ozone layer was first discovered.
The last stop on the tour was the bar where we were acquainted with a couple of the bases unofficial projects, making strong vodka, and seeing to it that visitors drink plenty of it. Today we are talking softly and sitting out a snowfall. My laundry froze on the rail last night before it was able to dry. It’s now hung in my tiny cabin.
Xplore is secured in place by means of shore lines. When we arrive at a new location Stephen finds a secluded area protected from icebergs. We drop anchor and back into the desired location. The zodiac is quickly launched and attaches heavy lines from the boat to shore at the four corners. The lines are tied to steel cables that are wrapped around large rocks on shore. Sometimes an acceptable spot is hard to find and requires going far back on shore. The lines are winched tight on board Xplore to secure us in place.
Pictured is a Weddell seal we found today.

Today we explored the ice caves on Galindez Island. One of the pictures shows Cecilia, Audrey and Stephen in the ice cave. Another shows me climbing up the outside to the entrance. The caves where deep and very difficult in places but Stephen took in small groups throughout the afternoon.
Back on board Xplore we used the warm sun to dry out and do some laundry. The hatch in my cabin was opened for the first time since we departed Ushuaia.
This evening we are invited to the Ukrainian station nearby.
Congratulations to the Steelers for their last minute Super Bowl victory.

Today we moved to an Adelie penguin rookery on Yalour Island. Glacier came ashore and was a big hit. The chicks were large and molting, not very cute to be honest.
Later we moved to the Ukranian station at Stella Creek. On the way we spotted several Humpback whales, and came close to two. This time I left my camera in my pocket and simply enjoyed the experience.
The good news is the bread I made was a big hit. The bad news is now I have to make more.

Everyone helps out in the galley preparing meals. I made the mistake of admitting I had made bread. Actually all I had done was put some ingredients in a bread machine and pressed the start button, a few hours later I had bread. Anyway, today it was my job to make bread so I opened the “Joy of Cooking” book, found a recipe and made bread. It looks good but nobody has had the courage to eat it yet.
This afternoon Stephanie and I climbed 1,200 foot high Mount Hovgaard on Hovgaard Island. The view from the top is spectacular in every direction. In the iceberg picture you can see Xplore near the bottom and to the left. The other picture shows the LeMaire Channel entrance in the center of the picture.

This morning we investigated Circumcision Bay where the Charcot Expedition wintered a hundred years ago. In the bay we found a Leopard Seal, about nine feet long, on an ice flow. We were able to get to within a few feet and took some nice pictures.
In the afternoon we sailed down the LeMaire Channel. A narrow passage with mountains and glaciers on both sides, incredibly beautiful.
On the down side we have decided to stop serving red wine at lunch. The reason is we only have enough red wine for 3 or 4 bottles per day until the end of the trip. And we are completely out of fresh apples and pears. We will try and survive.

Today we moved to Port Charcot, a historic site dating back to 1909. Google Charcot and Antarctica if you are interested. The weather is not very good so we are staying inside today and hope to venture out tomorrow. This is Antarctica and perfect days like yesterday don’t come very often.
Our keel touched bottom yesterday as we were attempting to find a way out of an ice filled Port Lockroy. No disaster since we have a steel hull and Stephen was going dead slow. But not something that brings a smile to anyone’s face either. Audrey and Simon took a portable depth sounder out in the zodiac and found a route with enough water for Xplore.

This morning while I was on deck talking with Barbara on the satellite phone a glacier on the other side of the bay calved. An enormous section of the glacier fell into the water sending a wave the surged around the bay for some time. One of our mooring lines snapped under the strain. The sight and sounds were very impressive; unfortunately Barbara could only get a verbal description of what we were observing.
Later in the day we visited the historic British station at Port Lockroy and we purchased some items from the gift shop there. Stephen invited the three women that work at the station to take and afternoon sail with us to an abandoned Chilean station down the channel. After that they were our guests for dinner.
Warm sun all day and fantastic views, temperature about 70. I understand there is a snow storm back in Massachusetts.

Port Lockroy has the reputation of being one of the most beautiful locations in Antarctica, and it didn’t disappoint. We spent an easy day hiking and snow shoeing to see the sights.
Glacier the penguin spent the day visiting some of his Gentoo cousins.
All aboard want to say hello to Natacha and Karen who hitched a ride on Xplore from Ushuaia to Puerto Williams.

This morning we moved down the Gerlache Straits in a flat calm, fog and ice. We go around the big ice and push the small stuff out of the way.
We anchored at Couverville Island and visited the Gentoo penguin colony. There were thousands of penguins and most nests held two chicks. They are very friendly and you can walk in among them if you take it slow.
Just before lunch I spotted a large Leopard Seal swimming under Xplore and the zodiac. Leopards can be very aggressive, have lots of sharp teeth and like to tear apart zodiacs, therefore we winched ours out of the water. In the picture you can see the Leopard Seal under the zodiac.
Tonight we are motoring over to Port Lockroy where we hope to spend a couple of days.